Copyright 2010 by Previously.
Pattern can be downloaded here: lingerie_case_patterns
I created this lingerie case as a storage solution for multiple sets of garters. I also think it would be handy to travel with too. I based the design on similar vintage lingerie bags and cases. The flower embroidered on each pocket is a depiction of the embellished garter inside. There are a lot of possibilities for customized embroidery and ribbon work, you don’t have to replicate what I’ve done here. The words Garters and Stockings are printed on the pattern, but the flowers are not. You can also opt to tie the ribbons closed instead of using a buckle, or sew in snaps and remove the ribbon altogether.
Please read all instructions before beginning!
I’ve tried to write out the instructions as clearly as possible, but if you have questions, leave them in the comments.
For this pattern you will need: lining fabric- 1 yd., case exterior fabric- 1 yd., 1/4″ seam binding- one package (or 2 yds.), 1″ ribbon- 1 yd., and 1″ buckle.
Optional: buttons, snaps, interfacing, embroidery thread, cording
* There are a couple of different ways to use this pattern. If you are making the top edge square (as shown) instead of curved, and you have a cutting mat with a grid and a rotary cutter, you probably don’t need to print out the pattern. You can simply cut a 18″ x 7″ rectangle from the case exterior fabric, a 18″ x 7″, 6″ x 7″ and 6 3/4″ x 13″ rectangle from the lining fabric. You can then measure out the markings from the pattern pieces.
* If you are making the top edge square, you can also use ribbon or twill tape instead of seam binding. But if you are going to use the curved top edge, you must use bias seam binding.
* I used medium weight linen as the lining fabric and light weight cotton for the exterior of the case. If you use lightweight fabrics for both lining and exterior, you may want to iron on interfacing to one of those layers.
* The three pockets for the garters are essentially box pleats, but if this seems daunting to you, simply make two large pockets by cutting an extra 6″ x 7″ rectangle.
* Cut Line _______
Sew Line ———-
Fold Line ………….
When completed, the lingerie case will fold up as shown.
1. Print out pattern pieces and tape together.
2. Iron your fabric and cut out the exterior fabric and large rectangle of lining fabric first. The pattern piece for the stocking pocket is integrated with the largest pattern piece. You can trace over it or cut a 6″ x 7″ rectangle without the pattern. Cut the garter pocket.
3. Transfer all markings, including embroidery markings if you plan to use them.
4. Attach the seam binding to the top edge of the stocking pocket.
5. Attach seam binding to top edge of garter pocket
6. Fold and iron pleats into garter pocket and secure the pleats with pins. Since folding paper is easier than fabric, I suggest you fold the paper pattern first into the pleats as a quick way to understand how the finished fabric pockets should look.The pocket should be 7″ wide overall when all the pleats are folded.
7. Sew the pleated garter pocket 1/2″ from the bottom on the sew line to secure pleats. Don’t worry about back stitching. This bottom edge is going to be turned under, if you want to serge or apply Fray Check, do this now.
8. Any embroidery for the stocking and garter pockets should be done now, before the pockets are attached to the lining.
9. Baste the stocking pocket to the lining in the corners.
10.Attach the garter pocket to the lining at the bottom of the pocket. The 1/2″ stitch line is going to be just above the fold line that is above the the stocking pocket. Pin garter pocket to the lining, right sides facing each other. Sew straight across, don’t back stitch.
11. Iron the garter pockets right side up by pressing the bottom crease.
12. Pin the sides of the garter pocket into place.
13. Sew along sides of garter pockets, on the sew line. Start just below the seam binding and backstitch. The presser foot should be inside the fold until you are about 1″ away from the bottom seam.
Then, with your needle down, lift the presser foot and position it so that it’s on top of the fold. Continue sewing to the bottom edge and back stitch. (Or, instead of backstitching, I just make my stitch length very small for the first and last 1/2″.)
14. Next sew in between the pockets on the sew line using the same method. When you get near the bottom and move your presser foot to the outside of the pockets, be careful to not catch the pocket sides with your stitches.
15. Stay stitch the hanging loop less than 1/4″ from the top edge.
16. Complete any other embroidery for case lining. This must be done before the lining fabric is sewn to the exterior fabric.
17.On the right side of the exterior fabric, line up the ribbon (if you are going to use a ribbon closure) and pin down. Stitch ribbon on the top and bottom edge leaving 1/4″ from the side edge of the case.
In the next step when you sew the exterior and the lining together, and later the seam binding, you will be able to move the ribbon out of the way
18. Any embroidery on the exterior fabric of the case should be done now.
19. Pin the lining to the exterior fabric.
20. Sew the horizontal seam just under the garter pocket, no need to back tack. This is where the case will fold when completed.
21. Stay stitch around the entire exterior, close to the cut edges, no further than 3/8″ away. Make sure you don’t catch the ribbon on the exterior fabric.
If you are a confident sewer, you can probably skip this step and pin everything together with the seam binding in step 22, or hand baste the lining and exterior together.
22. If you have some fraying edges, now is the time to clean them up. Attach the seam binding, pinning first to the exterior of the case. Again, make sure not to catch the ribbon. I would start the seam binding at the bottom center.
23. Attach buckle to ribbon, finish ribbon edges. Or, leave plain and tie closed.